I bought this bike in good shape off eBay from a guy in 2007. This GT380 is the same year model and color as the bike I owned in 1976. I also bought a non-running 380 (74 model, I think) from a local guy, to use as a parts bike. I swapped a few parts onto the running 380 to help it cosmetically, including a '76 model front fender (I like the fender with one stay as opposed to the original with two stays).  Some of the parts were sold on eBay to cover the cost of buying the bike.

     I rode the 380 off and on for about a year, when gas started appearing out of the overflow drains on one of the carbs. I pulled the carbs, cleaned them, and put in a Keyster kit, and adjusted the float levels (badly).

    After a few tries, I got the carbs to stop leaking, but the bike would not start. After checking, the points cam was not turning, and it seemed the nylon gear had fractured. I replaced the gear, and put the clutch cover back on with the timing marks aligned, but did not get around to test running the bike or seeing if it would fire up. It went on my "List of things to do".... and stayed there for two years.

    Finally, the guilt and shame overcame my laziness and I started back on the bike. My first move was to determine if the two cables laying across the seat were off the 380, or I had simply laid them there and they belonged to another bike. I posted a query (the first of many) on the Yahoo Suzuki GT Triples forum, and my education, and the bike's restoration began.

To take it out you take out the three Phillips screws in the LOWER flange and lift straight up. The pin I referred to is in the shaft below the pump body. It is just slid into a hole in the shaft, and easily falls out when you turn the pump on it's side. If you don't watch for it, it's easy to lose, and then the pump doesn't get driven, and so no oil to the bearings and cylinders = bad things happen.

Someone else mentioned that the o rings that seal the pump bottom flange discharge holes to the top of the distribution manifold (the plastic tube thing) have a tendency to stick to the bottom of the pump. You don't want to lose those either.

I put a pistol oiler to the input holes in the distribution manifold and force 2 stroke oil out through the tubing. Use a different color oil than you have in the lines and you can see the tubes change color. Then, when you put the pump back and start the engine, you can watch the oil tubing change color back to whatever is in the tank, and confirm the pump is working.

Don't get carried away and pump a lot of oil through into the engine. It'll smoke quite a bit with just part of a squirt through each of the tubes.

Gordon

Purging air from the injector lines.

I used a dab of grease on the pin to help it stay in place as I moved the oil pump back in place.

The trick is to get the ratchet on properly and turn it and the shaft counter-clockwise until it slips into place behind the holder, with some tension.

1. The floats are all different, so each needed to be measured and adjusted to ~26 or 27mm. Why are these main jets all different heights? They are fully seated...
turns out two of them had a pair of washers, instead of just one.
 

  6
Checking. The T-square is set at 1 3/16". It should be  1  1/16, that is closer to 27mm (not pictured). I readjusted the T-square and set the floats to 27mm. Note the end of the rule is set inside the bowel where the gasket touches.

        
Success! Street legal after 3 years.